Sony RX10iv. Coping with the Tripod Bush — Modifying an L-Bracket Plate to fit a Peak Design Clutch Hand Strap

The Sony RX10 Mark IV is an amazing camera in many ways and there is nothing else like it on the market. Although old in the tooth by modern standards (it was released in September 2017) and there seems no sign that a new model offering the same functionality will ever be made, it has a devoted following particularly with those using it for travel, wildlife still and video photography.

It does, like all camera designs, come with its own problems. One of the most annoying is the position of the tripod bush, near the back edge of the body. Fitting a quick-release tripod plate or any other attachment presents two problems. The first is that the plate protrudes from the back of the camera. The second is that if any attachment becomes loose it can rock in the bush and damage the edge of the body. There are photographs online showing the damage that has been done by a tripod plate or one of the types of strap that screws into the bush. I can only think the designers, trying to accommodate the large zoom lens (equivalent to 24-600 mm in 35 mm terms with a maximum aperture of f/2.4) could only find one place to put it.

There is a similar problem when trying to fit a Peak Design Clutch hand strap. I prefer a clutch, particularly for holding this type of still-video hybrid cameras and for using it and a small bag over the shoulder when using binoculars. The PD Clutch uses a small Arca-Swiss style plate to which the Anchor Link for the strap is attached. I realised that a bottom plate or L-bracket that screwed into the bush but which provided another bush near the centre of the body would be essential. I found one on Amazon UK. It is listed as Aumi L Plate Bracket QR Hand Grip Holder for Sony RX10. The plate is Arca-Swiss compatible, making tripod mounting a simple matter. However it lacked anywhere I could attach the PD Clutch. I would have to had added the small PD plate in addition to the Aumi Plate Bracket, making the camera even taller. Therefore, I decided to modify the Aumi Plate Bracket in order that a PD Anchor Link and hence a Clutch strap could be fitted.

Modifying the Aumi plate is not as simple as just drilling a hole for the Anchor Link. Material must be removed from the top and bottom of the plate in order for the PD Anchor Link to lie flat. In addition, the remaining bar cannot be too wide or too tall otherwise the Anchor Link will not fit. After working out the dimensions I used my small milling machine (Proxxon MF70) to make the cuts in the aluminium.

The diagrams show the dimensions for milling. At this stage I made no further modifications but on fitting the clutch I find the camera would not stand flat because the plastic fastener at the end of the strap came to lie below the plate. Since the part of the plate that went around the battery compartment seemed superfluous (and got in the way slightly when changing battery) I then removed it, taking care to leave sufficient of the lip that extends upwards to prevent the plate from rotating once the bolt is tightened. After that the camera lies flat on a surface. When all that was done I sprayed the bare parts with black paint and fitted the Clutch strap.

The first real test was a week’s trip to Portugal. I was prepared (a wrench of the right sizes in the pocket) should the bolt holding the bracket have come lose but it was as tight after a week of constant use as after I first put it in.

Therefore, I could use the Clutch strap and put the camera on a tripod or monopod with an Arca-Swiss style head without adding or changing anything. By adding another Anchor Link to the Clutch or to the adjacent strap lugs I could even add my PD neck strap. The tripod bush on the plate can also be used for accessories like a pistol grip.

I wish at times I had a 3D printer. I can envisage a very neat and light plate design.

The completed job with modified L-bracket plate and Peak Design Clutch Strap attached

Unmodified plate showing where the attachment for the Peak Design Anchor Link was made

Bottom and top views of the plate after the attachment point was made but before the loop
around the battery cover was removed

Top (camera side) view of the modified plate
I left sufficient of the bar at bottom right for the camera-facing lip to prevent rotation of the plate

Canon Legria HF G70 Camcorder for Wildlife? NO. Repeat NO

 I gave my first impressions of the Canon Legria (Vixia in the US) HF G70 Camcorder in February 2023. I concentrated on image quality, noise with the small sensor and focusing. All I found to be very good. However, I realised on my first big trip with this camcorder that there were two serious flaws which made it completely unsuitable as a camera for filming wildlife. So serious did they turn out to be that I got rid of the camera—with curses sending it on its way.

Problem 1. Start-up Time

Having already decided I did not like the flimsy switch used to turn the camera on, I realised that it took an inordinate length of time for the camera to actually turn on and permit the record button to be pressed or to zoom the lens. A start-up screen even appeared saying nothing of any importance, reminiscent of those we had with mini-DV tape camcorders in the past. Out came the stopwatch: 8½ seconds. Enough time for bird to appear, bow three times and disappear over the horizon. By contrast my Nikon Z7 was timed at under 1½ seconds and my Sony RX10iv took under 4 seconds to turn on and to zoom to its longest focal length. I just wonder whether some old firmware Canon installed in camcorders in the past is still being used, leaving time for tape or hard drives to start-up.

Problem 2. Hand-held at long focal lengths

As I was zoomed into more distant animals I noticed a strange shimmer towards both sides of the image. I had read in the manual that at long focal lengths with DynamicIS (stabilisation) turned on ‘the edges of the picture may be adversely affected (ghosting, artifacts and/or dark areas may appear) when compensating for a high degree of camcorder shake)’. Had I accidentally left it on DynamicIS? No. It was happening with StandardIS. It was clearly an image stabilisation problem. With IS off the artifacts disappeared but then of course the image bounced around all over the place. Was it just me, not holding the thing still enough? To test that I asked people with much steadier hands than me to try it: the artifacts were still appearing. To cut a long story short, after much testing on my part at different focal lengths, the camcorder went back to Canon with sample video. They returned it saying there was nothing wrong!

Well, nothing wrong if you stick to wide-angle shots handheld and nothing wrong if you have it on a tripod. But lots wrong for handheld wildlife or even subjects like sports.

I concluded as it went out of the door that this was yet another camera designed for the convenience of the designer rather than the real needs of the people buying it. Something surely must have gone wrong with the design of the stabilisation system compared with other brands. Not only did Canon launch a camcorder with incorrect marketing information (that it has infrared capability), as I reported previously, but one that performed so miserably, both technically and ergonomically, in the field.

…The first thing I checked on the Sony RX10iv when it arrived was handheld video at 600 mm equivalent focal length on the optical zoom. Was there a problem à la Canon? No.